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Mission Impossible (Part 1)

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The never spotted woodpecker

Now, I’m a reasonable sort of person and I’m perfectly willing to believe the lesser spotted woodpecker does actually exist, that it’s not some sort of in-joke made up by expert birders. But… a woodpecker the size of a sparrow? I don’t know. I have never seen one. I’m endlessly being told about them on people’s garden feeders, but the “small woodpecker” they describe always turns out to be a fairly large one, such as a great spotted, which I’m pretty certain definitely does exist, having seen them on my bird table.

Description: birders.

At last, back in early March this year, I had a golden opportunity to see this legendary beast, on a visit to the RSPB reserve at Ynys-hir. Under the guise of heading there to get a proper feel for the place as a wildlife reserve in early spring (by the time we get there for Springwatch it’s nearly summer), I wanted to bag the lesser spotted woodpecker, with which Ynys-hir is purported to abound.

Description: the RSPB reserve at Ynys-hir.

the RSPB reserve at Ynys-hir.

I have to admit that during the hurly-burly of Springwatch, we are all so busy that I hadn’t had a chance to explore Ynys-hir properly, so this visit would be like discovering the place anew. And with so few leaves on the trees, it presented a brilliant opportunity to see birds. At this point, dear reader, I’m feeling quite confident!

The three-hour drive through the heart of Wales at night was, frankly unnerving. The closer I got to my destination, the thicker the fog became; manic drivers hurtled up behind me on the wild roads, headlights inches from my bumper. As it turned out, the fog set the scene for my whole visit, and in a curious way it enhanced the experience.

Description: And with so few leaves on the trees, it presented a brilliant opportunity to see birds.

And with so few leaves on the trees, it presented a brilliant opportunity to see birds.

Next morning at 6.15am you would have seen a shadowy figure creeping out of my excellent B%B and slipping around the corner to a deserted Ynys-hir. To begin with, I was surprised at how little evidence there was of spring. At home in the Somerset Mendips, the lesser celandines were in flower in February, scattering the verges with gold, Flowery yellow primroses were out in profusion and the hedgerows had that wonderful, occasional burst of green as new leaves began to appear. But here in the gnarled woods of Ynys-hir, spring seemed to be on hold. Yet I needed to look, and perhaps listen, more carefully. The fog, if anything, was thicker this morning, giving Ynys-hir a mysterious air. I wouldn’t have been surprised to see Gandalf appear out of a thick swirl, staff in hand with a couple of hobbits in tow. All around the twisted oaks were drip, drip, dripping.

Description: But here in the gnarled woods of Ynys-hir, spring seemed to be on hold.

But here in the gnarled woods of Ynys-hir, spring seemed to be on hold.

My mind wandered back to a family holiday in Morocco – one of the highlights was a special evening experience. We were all blindfolded and then given a succession of sensory delights, everything from sweet smells wafted under the nose and soft bells being rung to the touch of a feather. The lack of sight served only to enhance each experience and now, in Ynys-hir, the fog was doing very much the same thing. Denied sight, I found the calls of invisible ravens ominous and medieval. I became sharply aware of a harsh croaking somewhere in the distance letting me know that, high up in faraway trees, herons were already nesting. The drumming of a great spotted woodpecker trying to entice a mate echoed through the woods, and in fact, there he was. Clearly visible, bashing away on a rotten branch, the whole scene rendered black and white by the mist. The woods smelled damp and delicious (remember, I’d had no breakfast as yet).

Description: My mind wandered back to a family holiday in Morocco – one of the highlights was a special evening experience.

My mind wandered back to a family holiday in Morocco – one of the highlights was a special evening experience.

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