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How To Create A Window Light Effect And Much More (Part 2)

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Improving hard light

Description: Using the Hard light mode on an image with two layers the same boosts the contrast and saturation of the image

Using the Hard light mode on an image with two layers the same boosts the contrast and saturation of the image

Question

I’m trying to master hard, directional lighting with one light, a reflector and honeycomb but the light still looks soft – what am I doing wrong?

Answer

If you’ve got the light 45 degrees up and to the left or right and around a couple of metres distance, then it’s most likely to be down to post production. The editing is just as important as the shooting in the process of creating the hard-light look. In Photoshop, a Levels Adjustment Layer will allow you to check you’ve got the full contrast range – bring the black and white top ramp sliders in to meet the histogram info edges if it doesn’t already. Then use a Curves Adjustment Layer to darken the shadows with a shadow point, using midtone and highlight points to fix the highlights and midtones. A further Curves Adjustment Layer can boost overall contrast a touch by dropping shadows and pushing up the highlights.

Description: Improving hard light

Step 1: Here’s our image before any Photoshop editing. Strong light has been used but the shot needs a bit of tweaking to be brought to life.

Step 2: Levels set the contrast range while Curves improve the contrast, darkening the shadow tones that make hard lighting work.

Step 3: Another Curves layer is used to improve global contrast further and some extra Curves layers can be used to dodge and burn locally.

Off-camera flash

Description: Off-camera flash

Question: I’ve taken my Speedlite flash off-camera to improve my portraits, but how can I prevent the shadow from falling behind the model onto the plain white background?

Answer: If you want to light your model and background, the shadow is sadly unavoidable unless you’re prepared to invest in a second Speedlite and fire that remotely at the background. You’ll need to pull the model far forward enough so the light doesn’t catch the side of her head and set the flash power high enough for it to kill the shadow. There’s plenty of information on the web about syncing two units. The alternative is to try and eliminate the shadow in post-production. If the shadow is low down enough that it doesn’t touch the hair is should be easy enough to select with the Quick Selection Tool. Then just clone it out on a new layer.

Light modifier accessories

3 of the best

Barn doors

Description: Barn doors

Website: www.warehouseexpress.com

Unwanted spill light is the enemy of controlled, precision lighting. You can help prevent light bouncing off nearby walls with the use of barn doors which help to direct the light just about any way you want it.

Honeycomb grids

Description: Honeycomb grids

Website: www.juststudiogear.co

Use one of these inside your reflector dish to really focus the spread of light. Available in a variety of options, honeycomb grids offer more control than barn doors and will require a fill light to prevent harsh shadows.

Diffusion material

Description: Diffusion material

Website: www.rosco.com

A studio flash with reflector dish alone creates specular highlights and ugly, harsh shadows. You can easily soften the light a touch with some diffusion material such as spun, frost, or rolux made by Rosco.

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